The star-studded Tory Burch fall 2024 runway extravaganza at Astor Hall in the New York Public Library on Monday night transported attendees to a realm far removed from the modest beginnings of the TRB by Tory Burch collection, which made its debut in February 2004 with the support of friends and family at a quaint store in NoLIta.
Isn’t that simply sublime?
Over the span of 20 years, Burch has blossomed into a formidable force in American design, inching ever closer to the level of creativity and refinement associated with much older European heritage brands. With a business boasting close to $2 billion in revenues, she has undeniably demonstrated that fashion dreams can indeed become reality (with a significant assist from access to capital).
“It’s one of my favorite words, and I don’t think people use it that much,” Burch remarked, reflecting on her vision to infuse the everyday with a touch of the extraordinary. This ethos was vividly captured in the collection’s delightfully whimsical ruched and ruffled nylon minidresses crafted from shower caps of all things, as well as in a jacquard top and skirt adorned with the repeated word “sublime” in elegant script.
In this milestone year, while Burch expressed her reluctance to dwell on the past in a recent interview about her 20th anniversary, there were subtle nods to her roots sprinkled throughout the collection.
Continuing to evolve her design language, Burch ventured into the realm of unconventional materials, fashioning intriguing textured dresses and outerwear from sequined fringe, paper leather, and tinsel raffia. Symbols of traditional female domesticity—shower caps, knee-high stockings, and slips—were reimagined as chic fashion statements. The collection exuded a subtle allure with vinyl bodysuits, lace-edged nylon slips, and sheer mesh skirts adorned with sequins.
Burch explored innovative forms and proportions, presenting lampshade-shaped skirts and sleeveless dresses that played with volume and silhouette. Retro-futurist elements made an appearance in the form of compact knit hoodies, ergonomic minaudières, and a modern reinterpretation of the iconic Pierce shoe—a molded pump. On the accessories front, attention was drawn to the revamped Lee bag, featuring handles that could be folded down to transform a shopper tote into a sleek clutch.
Of particular note was the elevated tailoring, evident in futuristic interpretations of military jackets—a brand staple since the Sgt. Pepper jacket days. A black hair calf zipper skirt and blazer paired with an OG Tory dickey exuded sophistication, while a raw edge blanket stripe pantsuit offered a nod to the designer’s runway Baja hoodie from spring 2011.
Indeed, the journey towards establishing a heritage necessitates a backward glance.
